First we run the door manually to rule out a spring or track problem masquerading as an opener issue - that's a different job and a different bill. If the opener itself is at fault, we check the motor capacitor, test the gear set for stripping, and look at the logic board and receiver. On a unit from the 1970s build era common in Reese, replacement gear kits exist for some models but not all, and boards for the oldest chain-drive units are close to impossible to source new. When parts aren't available, we say so up front rather than stringing a repair along. For newer screw-drive and belt units, the fix is often a sensor realignment, a limit reset, or a board swap, and those parts are easier to get. Either way we test full open-close cycles, check the auto-reverse safety function, and confirm the wall control and remote both work before we call the job done.